How to convert wheels to tubeless?

Are you tempted by a tubeless set-up, but you don't know how to do it? Find out all about switching to tubeless, its advantages and disadvantages, and tons of other information in this article.

Maybe you are new to cycling and recently come across so-called "tubeless system." In this article, we’d like to explain what it is and what you need to use this system.

What is the tubeless system?

The name itself suggests that this is a system that doesn’t use an inner tube between the rim of the bicycle and the tire, but only air. Just like cars or motorcycles have been tubeless for years, the tubeless system has also become a near-standard in cycling over the past two decades. Tubeless tires were mainly developed to eliminate classic punctures, like tubes being pierced by thorns, sharp stones, glass, or nails. With tubeless tires, there is also no risk of pinch flats when riding over obstacles. Other significant advantages include lower rolling resistance between tire and tube, and above all, reduced overall bike weight. The tubeless system is now commonly used for trail, enduro, downhill, and even gravel bikes. Tubeless tires are also increasingly used on road bikes.

However, this system also has its specifics. It can’t be used on just any bike or tire. It all starts with rims that are compatible with tubeless setups, which have specially shaped bead hooks. In the past, people tried making tubeless setups from standard rims, but there was always the risk of the tire unseating. Another key element is a tire labeled Tubeless Ready (or TLR, TR, TLE, etc.). These tires differ from standard clincher tires by often having a Kevlar bead and a less porous structure to better retain air. After selecting the right rim and tire, all that remains is choosing a suitable valve, tubeless rim tape, and sealant.

Advantages and disadvantages of the tubeless system

The main advantages of tubeless tires include the ability to ride at lower air pressure, which improves traction, grip, and comfort. Without a tube, punctures like pinch flats or thorn punctures are much less common. And if a puncture does occur, you may not even notice it, thanks to sealant that can seal holes up to 4 mm. In the case of larger damage that the sealant can’t fix, you can plug the hole or insert a tube to continue your ride. One downside of TLR tires can be their installation, which can sometimes be really tricky. If a bike hasn’t been used for a while, the tire may slowly deflate, as the sealant dries inside the tire. Another minor disadvantage is the possibility of the tire unseating from the rim at very low pressures. Despite all the pros and cons, I believe the tubeless system is now a standard, especially in mountain biking.

Interested in "tubeless" but not sure how?

To convert wheels to tubeless, you first need to thoroughly clean and degrease the rim, using something like isopropyl alcohol or a Muc-Off Glue Remover. Once the rim is clean enough, apply the tubeless rim tape, which prevents air and sealant from leaking through the rim. There are also so-called UST rims, which have no spoke holes inside (where air could escape), and don’t require taping. The correct tape width is based on the internal rim width. For example, if the inner width is 24 mm, a 25 mm wide tape is recommended. There are many types of tape, but I personally had the best experience with tapes from Stans No Tubes and Muc-Off, which work great.

When applying the tape, it should start about 5 cm before the valve hole and end about 5 cm after the valve hole after wrapping around the rim. The tape must be tight and firmly stuck to the rim. Once everything is done correctly, you can install the tubeless valve and tighten it properly to ensure a good seal. It's important to choose the correct valve length and the right shape of the rubber base. There are many models and colors available, which can nicely complement the bike’s style. Now you can install the tubeless tire and add your chosen sealant.

There are two methods of applying sealant: pouring it directly into the tire before it's fully seated — though this runs the risk of spilling it — or the safer option: using a syringe injector through the valve. Correct dosing is key (every sealant has different recommendations), but for example, Muc-Off No Puncture recommends: road bikes 30–45 ml, MTB 26” and 27.5” 60–75 ml, gravel 60–75 ml, MTB 29” 105–140 ml, and for downhill 120–140 ml.

For initial inflation, it’s best to use a compressor or a high-pressure floor pump with an air reservoir, which helps the tire seat properly on the rim. You’ll usually hear loud popping sounds as the tire locks into place. If everything looks good, you're ready to ride. The sealant should be topped up every 2–3 months. If you're caught on the trail with a major puncture the sealant can’t fix, you can use repair plugs like Lezyne Tubeless Repair Kit to seal the hole and continue riding. Most sealants today are CO2 compatible, which helps you reinflate tires faster — but they never replace the reliability of initial tire seating with a proper compressor.

Converting to tubeless isn’t rocket science — almost anyone can do it.

If you still have questions after reading this article about whether tubeless is the right choice for your current or new bike, feel free to contact us by phone at +43 144 20070 or via email at info@koloshop24.com